not very good
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I'll only read books if they're interesting and good.... this one isn't.
Dixon writes about big wave surfing from the early days up to the 80's. No mention of Eddie anywhere, in fact, I don't think that any Hawaiian gets a mention. Odd, yeah. Also, I dont think that 15 to 20 feet waves are that awe inspiring today - given the progression in big wave surfing over the last 10/15 years. Whatever..... I couldn't get past the first 30 pages.
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