Turning silver into gold
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What led Christian Europe into the Western Hemisphere? According to Brian Fagan, it wasn't spices or even empire, but the need to respond to religious dogma. Over the centuries, the Roman Catholic church added fast and saint's days to the Christian calendar. Deprived of meat, which was hardly common fare in any case, the population became increasingly dependent on fish. Freshwater fish stocks were readily depleted, and those caught often failed to accept the curing techniques of the day. Ocean fish became the mainstay of many, and even those seemingly rich waters were erratic producers. In this interesting and informative history, Fagan depicts the fish, the ships that sought them and the business of the fisheries as they expanded across the Atlantic. Only the fishermen remain undefined.
Fagan points out that many elements enter into any rendition of the fishing trade. Rising populations and increasing numbers of "fast days" were but two factors. Another was the hierarchical society emerging from the Middle Ages. The best fish, such as sturgeon and salmon, went to the aristocracy and senior church officers. The monastic orders, although declaring themselves frugal in policy, increasingly divided their population, with fish quality at meals following status. The poor were left with salt herring and coarse fish. Proper preservation was slow in developing, the author notes, and varied with the fish and location. Slow and unreliable transportation limited cartloads of fish no further than 150 kilometres from shore. Another major topic Fagan deals with is the almost minimal change in ship design over the centuries. Not until the Norsemen began to roam the eastern Atlantic did real seaworthy vessels emerge. These were fast, deep-water sailers, but had little carrying capacity. For fishing purposes, they were limited in catch size. Later ships, the buss, the dogger and the caravel, while lumbering hulks compared to the Norse knarr, could bring home a sizeable load.
Shifting fish swarms, due to mostly unknown causes, drew secretive fishers to fresh sites. Fagan notes that while we know much about ships and the market for fish, who found which location remains an enigma. Fishermen keep close counsel on where they have gone to reap the sea's harvest, and much of the chronology of new discoveries of fish stocks isn't available. The Icelandic waters brought many fishers northwest from Europe, introducing them to new locations as competition and various taxes and regulations hampered expansion into the new scene. It is government accounts and pronouncements that offer the best clues to who was fishing where. From Iceland, storms, contrary winds or shifting ice drove many fishermen to Newfoundland and the great cod fisheries. Settlement in North America was slow and hesitant, the author notes, but drying and salting the catch was a spur to establishing communities. According to Fagan, once the Grand Banks fisheries were tapped, there was more gold to be made from the silvery cod than directly from the Indies itself.
It is difficult to know whether to rate this book for its history or as a resource for innovative cooks. Along with graphics of ships, fish and useful maps, Fagan spices the text with mouth-watering recipes. Although one of the first entries warns "We recommend that you don't make this recipe", the remainder are clearly worth close further attention. The entire work, recipes, analysis and speculation alike command attention. Fagan's prose retains your attention and interest throughout. A challenging thesis, ably presented. [stephen a. haines - Ottawa, Canada]
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